Wednesday, June 9, 2010

The End of an Adventure

June 8th, 2010

Well there you have it, 299 days and 4100 nautical miles. This concludes our blog "The Log of Periwinkle II". Gill and I have really enjoyed this adventure and if you have thoughts of doing something like this, we recommend that you give it a try. Sure there will be some misadventures but over all it is a great experience. Periwinkle II is now safely home at her dock and the engine is off.

Collingwood, ON - HOME!!


Day 299, June 8th, 2010

The alarm went off at 5:00 and we'd slept well. Oh! I didn't want to get up! I was safe and warm there in bed and didn't want to face the day! But home was so close - only 3.5 hours!!!

We listened to the forecast again. Still strong winds but it sounded as if the worst of it would be coming the following day, Wednesday. Meanwhile the wave height at the buoy in the south of Georgian Bay was reported as 0.3 metres. with winds of 10 knots out of the west. The barometer was rising. This was an improvement. The wind had dropped by 5 knots and the wave height by 0.6 knots. I didn't like the idea of the wind coming out of the west though, knowing it would hit us broadside as we crossed the Bay. We got all our gear on again and set off.

The day was clear - we could see right across the Bay. The tiny pinpoint of white which is the elevator and those dear ski hills on the Niagara Escarpment.

It wasn't fun. The waves seemed higher than 0.3 when we got to open water. Back to the wallowing motion. Back to my imaginative thoughts as I white knuckled it at the helm. I'm not much of a conversationalist when I'm nervous so poor old John didn't have anyone to talk to! The good thing was, that I didn't hear any creaking from the wooden frame and dear little Periwinkle was as desperate to get home as me. Somehow or other she chugged along between 6.1 and 6.5 knots all the way across the Bay. I swear she could smell Slip #10, her little spot at the Collingwood Yacht Club. Slowly, slowly, we watched the "distance to waypoint" diminish from 15 nautical miles to 0. With each milestone there was comfort - we're halfway; less than 5 miles; less than 3 miles; less than 2.5 miles; we're almost home!!! We watched the elevator and the ski hills get bigger and then we could even see the houses. Finally, we were in the channel approaching the dear old elevator. What a wonderful landmark it is. As we turned the corner into the Harbour, we were surprised and excited to see the building at the "Shipyards" housing development on the waterfront.. So much has changed since we left home. We can't wait to explore.

I was glad there were few people about. It was lovely just to have a few moments to take in the moment. 4,100 miles and we'd closed the Loop. How lovely to be home again. What a trip, what an adventure!

Port Severn, ON




Day 298, June 7th, 2010

We left the wall ahead of Bluenoser at 8:40 and were through the swing bridge at 9:20 after crossing Sparrow Lake. Canadian Shield scenery. After living in Thunder Bay for 35 years and now in Collingwood, this is really home country!!

We arrived at Lock #44, The Big Chute, at 2:05. Just time to tie up on the blue line, pull up the dinghy and throw another jug of diesel in the tank. The guys called us up and competently caught us in the slings. This must be the best of all the locks. Its an extraordinary ride up in the marine railway, over the road and down to the water on the other side. All went so smoothly. When we were floating, John was told he could go ahead and again we tied up on the wall briefly so John could go below and "burp" the packless seal and lower the dinghy back down. Off we went again!

Through another couple of little lakes and we finally arrived at Port Severn. It was very windy. This is the smallest lock of all, built as a temporary lock in 1915. We waited while a 43ft cruiser locked through and then it was our turn. The weather forecast still wasn't good - much too windy to tackle Georgian Bay so we tied up on the west side. We went for a walk, bought an ice cream and a movie for $10 and then settled down to wait. We had a late supper at 7:30 but by the time we'd done the dishes the wind seemed to have dropped. Its a tricky little channel on the west side of Port Severn, so we decided to leave while there was still some light and make a try for it.

We just made it through the channel markers as the sun went down. All seemed okay at that point but we were still in the protected waters of the Waubaushene Channel. As we came out of the channel heading around the headland at Sawlog Point, the water changed considerably. The forecast had given the waters in the south of Georgian Bay as less then 1 metre but it was increasingly uncomfortable. Periwinkle was just wallowing in the waves, the wooden mast frame was creaking, and the wind was strong out of the WNW. It was obvious we would not be able to cross and should seek shelter. It seemed ironic that we had carried the survival suits, packed in a dry bag in the very back of the quarter berth, all these 4,000 miles, and on the very last night I'd dragged them out. They are lovely and warm and I felt more secure. I hate going through rough water with the mast down. Its my vivid imagination again as I picture the supports breaking up and the mast slipping. I had plans how I was going to cut the lines with a knife and see the mast sink overboard hoping Periwinkle wouldn't roll!! We looked at the chart and decided to head for Beckwith Island. Having reached there, the water was somewhat better but we chugged on a bit further to Christian Island and dropped the anchor in 26ft of water, not far from the ferry terminal. The water was calm there and we knew we could safely get some sleep. It was about 2:00 a.m. when we climbed into bed with the alarm set for 5:00 a.m.

Lock #42


Day 297, June 6th, 2010

It rained all night and was still miserable in the morning. The thought of diving on the boat repeatedly again was not a happy thought. The nearer we get to home, the further away we seem!!!

Lock #40 was also full of weeds but luckily they got caught behind the doors when they opened and we didn't have too much trouble inching our way down to Lock #41 at Gamebridge, the last lock the East side of Lake Simcoe. This lock was clear!! We locked through and tied up on the wall again. John dove this time but it was easier to clear and everybody seemed confident this would be the last of the weeds!!

We set off again at 10:30 with only the weather to contend with - strong winds were forecast in the region. Lake Simcoe didn't look bad at first. We tried but had to turn back when the slop got uncomfortable. We went back behind the break wall and tied up on the inside wall. At first it sounded as if we'd have to wait the rest of the day and the next but after lunch the wind dropped from 20 knots to 10 knots and the sun came out. We decided to try again. It was quite a bit better and we made it across with no trouble.

At Atherley Narrows we stopped at a marina in Orillia for diesel and water and then carried on up Lake Couchiching. It was windy but we were fine and there were no weeds!!!

We arrived at Lock #42 just 10 minutes before 7:00 and locked through. The staff told us there was a swing bridge which would be closed at 7:00 and would not open again till 9:00, so we tied up on the west wall. We phoned home to Collingwood and let them know we hoped to be home Tuesday if the weather cooperated. There was another boat there - a 31ft motor boat, a really nice boat called Bluenoser. "Jim" had just bought it in Whitby and was taking it home to Penetang. After supper John went over and had a drink and a chat with Jim and his crew, Bruce, as they wanted to hear all about "The Great Loop". I gave my apologies and went to bed!

Lock #40




Day 296, June 5th, 2010

We left Bobcadgeon at 7:00 and did 15 miles to Fenelon Falls where we arrived shortly after 9:30. It was a good run with no problems! Then into Rosedale Lock #35 and across Balsam Lake. There's so much to see, so many pretty cottages, each with its own character. It was a beautiful day with the sun shining.

From Balsam, we went across Mitchell Lake - everything was fine. Then, as we approached Kirkfield Lock #36 (2nd largest lift lock in the world after Peterborough) we met a sailboat coming the other way, tied up on the wall. We called out to warn him of the weeds. His reply was "Its worse coming here!" "Oh! It can't be!" I stupidly replied. "We've had to dive on the boat to free up the prop 4 or 5 times already!" "That's just about what I'm going to do now!"

Into the lock we went and were joined by a 36ft motor cruiser - the guy had just picked it up in Albany, NY and was bringing it home to Midland. He reckoned he hadn't had any trouble with the weeds.

Coming out of Kirkfield, the motor cruiser took off fast and was in the distance very rapidly. Meanwhile, the rpm dropped while we were still in the channel and all of a sudden we were going nowhere. The channel was thick with weeds. There was quite a wind blowing too from the starboard bow and before John could drop the anchor we were blown out of the channel towards a rocky outcropping with a Trent Severn sign. The anxiety didn't end when we realised the anchor wasn't holding - it too, was clogged with weeds immediately. I scrambled out of my clothes, donned my skin, no time for the wet suit, and jumped overboard. The grass was so thick around me and I could stand on the weed bed with my flippers. I thought for sure the boat must have gone aground, but John assured me it was still rocking! Several dives later the prop and shaft were clear and we tried to move up, back into the channel, but it was hopeless, we just got choked up again immediately before John could get the anchor up. We tried tying the dinghy to the port side of the boat and using the 15hp outboard along with the main engine, but then brown smoke started pouring from the exhaust. I thought we'd lost the engine!
A fishing boat came by with 2 guys. They had a 50hp motor and offered to help. We threw them a tow line and they pulled while John struggled to raise the anchor. They did manage to get us back into the channel but it was pretty obvious they didn't have enough power. We dropped the anchor again. Then we saw a motor cruiser come out of Kirkfield lock and was approaching up the channel. I called them on Channel 16 and asked if they would consider giving us a tow. The Prescott Coast Guard must monitor Ch.16 very carefully, because they came back to me and offered their assistance. I explained that the motor cruiser was going to try to take a tow line and Prescott stood by on Ch. 65 while John tried to throw them a line.
Several tries later though, the motor cruiser gave up. They just didn't have the confidence to do it. Quite understandable. But a jet boat had happened by too, a man and his two young sons, and they offered to tow us into Bolsover. We kept the Coast Guard up to date and they made contact with the captain on his cell phone. It was decided they would take us to Sunset Cove Marina in Bolsover. The jet boat was about 18ft and at first we really didn't think they would have the power, but we made a good steady 2-3 knots across the dreaded Canal Lake, about 5 miles, to Sunset Cove. Luckily there was an empty slip where we were able to tie up. John wanted to pay the guy for his fuel and time but he wouldn't hear of it. "Just pass the favour on when you get the opportunity - that's what boating is all about!" That's the boating community for you!!! Bless his heart!! We called Prescott Coast Guard too, of course, and let them know we were safely tied up on the dock, and thanked them for their support. They wished us well with our engine problem. John then dove on the boat again. He pulled great rafts of weeds from the rudder. He couldn't even see the prop and shaft at first - it was just a huge ball of weed! Once that was cleared off, John tried the engine but there was no water coming from the exhaust. He took the water intake hose off the engine and blew down the line. It cleared and when we tried again we had lots of water coming from the exhaust. He felt we could continue! I was so stressed out. I'd thought we'd lost the engine for sure and had had visions of trucking her home and having to get a new engine. My goodness, my imagination is alarming!! I've always considered myself as a pretty fearless person, but this was all getting to me. At one point I announced to John "my cruising days are done!" The proprietor of Sunset Cove was also very kind and wished us well on our journey without taking anything for the use of his dock. Thanks Sunset! He and a couple of fellas on the dock told us that that would be the end of the weeds. They were wrong!!!

Our next lock was #37, got through that one and then into the narrow man made channel. Lots of weeds again. We backed up several times but knew the prop was wrapped again. We got into Lock #39 and saw rafts of weeds actually in the lock. When the west side doors were opened and we attempted to leave the lock, we couldn't go anywhere! The lockmaster eventually threw us a line down and he pulled us out of the lock until we could tie up on the wall.
My turn this time. Down I went, had to struggle to get a huge raft off the rudder - couldn't even see the prop, except for this huge mass of weeds. It seemed to take ages to chop away but gradually the prop and shaft were clear. Meanwhile the lockmaster had given John a garden rake to clear the rafts of floating weeds from the boat. There was a bit of a current there going down from Lock #39 to Lock #40 so we realised that if we didn't set off then, the rafts of weeds would all be ahead of us and we'd be stuck again, so while the prop was clear we set off again and made it the .8 mile to Lock #40. By this time it was almost dark. We had a look into Lock #40 - more weeds. All a bit depressing! We thought we'd feel better after something to eat so sat down to barbecued pork chops at 8:30 at night!!

Bobcadgeon, ON

Day 295, June 4th, 2010

We were waiting at Lock 25 at 9:00 a.m. and the two girls there locked us through. The next lock was a Lakefield, and then we did 15 miles across Lake Katchawanooka. This is all beautiful cottage country.

Lock #27 at Young's Point is a popular little spot. Very picturesque. There's a lovely store there, where we've been before. We tied up for a bit and treated ourselves to an ice cream and a walk about, stopping at the general store for some milk.

Back on the boat we motored through Clear Lake and Stony Lake. The scenery changes here from the marshy low lands to a the rockier landscape of the Canadian Shield. And, fortunately, deep water with no weeds!!

From Burleigh Falls, Lock #28 into Lock #29 and Lovesick Lake, then Buckhorn Lake through Lock #31. We were doing so well with visions of getting to Fenelon Falls before dark, when we got hung up on weeds again at the top part of Buckhorn, Gannon Narrows. The lake was shallow there - about 7 - 8 ft deep in the channel and the weeds were thick. The rpm dropped until we were hardly doing 2 knots. We stopped the boat and I went down to clear the prop, shaft and rudder. However, we thought we could just do it quickly and continue on without anchoring, but the wind blew us out of the channel a little where the weeds were even worse. We got going again but immediately got bogged down again. This time we dropped the anchor right in the channel and after waiting for a motor cruiser to pass, I went down again and had another go. Freed up again, we chugged through another 1.75 miles to a patch of deep water where we had to repeat the performance and cut away more weeds. Our hopes of making Fenelon Falls were dashed. We didn't think we'd make it even through the lock at Bobcadgeon.

Just as we were approaching the lock in a narrow channel right in the town, a tour boat pulled out just as we were passing, without giving any kind of signal and obviously without checking for traffic! Fortunately John had the horn right beside him and gave the danger signal of five loud blasts. We came within 3 feet of him but didn't hit! He had been about to do a 360 degree turn, so waved us ahead to the lock. It was 7:05 p.m. We thought we'd missed locking through by 5 minutes so we tied up on the blue line. Then we heard the lockmaster call out to us that if we wanted to lock through, to give him a high wave. We waved and he called us up. He said he had to bring the water up anyway so might as well give us a ride! That was kind of him. We tied up on the blue line on the West side ready to make a good start the next day.

Once tied up we had a nice chat with Bernie, Sylvie and Ann who were having a few days fun on a little houseboat. Even though they owned cottages in the area, it was their first time at using the locks!! We went for a short walk around the pretty little town before turning in for the night.

After Lock #24




Day 294, June 3rd, 2010



We left Lang's at 7:00 before anybody else was about. It was a difficult run across Rice Lake because of the weeds. We remembered it like that from before, so expected it. We did "the dipsy doodle reverse thing" repeatedly with some success but it was frustrating. Things improved a little once we got into the River and then enjoyed the three locks in Peterborough.

The lift lock, of course, being the most fun. What a weird sensation it is going up and up in the tank and finally looking back over that enormous drop!!



Coming out of the lift lock in the Trent River, the weeds were worse than ever. Even the backingi up didn't seem to help. You could see the weeds right up to the surface and in the channel. It seemed to take forever to get to Lock 22 when it started to pour with rain.



In Lock #23 they had a new set of doors on the West side. They were beautiful. We thought they were Western Cedar but when we asked, were told they were built from Douglas Fir!! I wished I had taken a picture.



We managed to get through Lock #24 before they stopped for the day and anchored between 24 and 25. Then donned the gear again and went diving! The shaft and prop were just gummed up with weeds. It was a lovely peaceful spot. Pretty good day in all. Managed 39 miles and five locks. Fridays, Saturdays and Sundays, the waterway hours are extended to 7:00 p.m. so we hoped to do better for the next three days.

Lang's Family Resort, Rice Lake


Day 293, June 2nd, 2010

We only managed 23 miles today. It was a beautiful day until the last hour. Managed 9 more locks, but there was lots of weeds again. Coming out of Lock #11 we got really bogged down and were only doing 0.9 knots. We kept having to back up in a circle to get the weeds to spin off. On one occasion the popping sound recurred and the temperature light came on again. Its a mystery! Did we pick up something in the lock?

We've seen lots of turtles, had the company of a muskrat in one lock, and swans. I love seeing the wildlife. The Trent Severn is giving away these lovely little information cards, each featuring a different animal, bird or fish. We're collecting two sets for Katie and Eric. I think they'll really like them. They seem better than baseball cards!!

The sky looked stormy at 4:00. We arrived at Lock #18 in Hastings just in time to lock through.
Then went on a bit to Lang's Family Resort on Rice Lake. It was pouring with rain when we arrived but it was lovely to be there again. In 2006 they made us so welcome when we had to await an engine part there for 3 days. Its a great location and great fishing.

Haig's Reach

Day 292, June 1st, 2010

We set off at 8:35 and went through the first lock at 9:00 a.m., as soon as they opened. The first 5 locks are one after the other. All the lock personnel look so smart in their uniforms and the lock properties are so well kept. Locking through is slow though as most gates are still manually operated. There are lots of weeds. When we stopped for the day at 4:15 , right after Lock #9 in Haig's Reach, we donned our wet suits and dove on the boat. We cut away a lot of weeds from the prop. and shaft and scraped off a bunch of barnacles from down south! John also took a wire brush to the water intake strainer and removed barnacles from there. (Perhaps they were the culprits to the engine overheating problem?)

Monday, May 31, 2010

Trenton, ON




Day 291, May 31st, 2010

I was on first watch from 8:00 p.m. to 11;00 p.m. It gradually was getting a little lumpier but the boat was handling it well and the mast was secure. I handed over to John at 11:00 and went down below to sleep.

Then it wasn't so good. Of course, I realised that all motion seems exaggerated in the V-berth, in the bow of the boat, but I couldn't relax. The boat's motion got more and more erratic, it seemed and I got quite nervous. Our course was NNW and a wind came up out of the NE at about 8 knots (according to the weather forecast out of Rochester). This caused an uncomfortable swell on the starboard beam. I'm never very comfortable with the mast down. The boat just doesn't feel right. I was muttering under my breath "I'm never going to do this again!" I got up after about an hour and checked with John. As I reached the cockpit, I could see the moon had come up and the water behind us just looked calm and gorgeous. John reassured me that all was well - he'd checked the mast, and all was tight and secure. I went back to bed and this time was able to drop off to sleep. When I got up again at 2:00 a.m. we'd made good headway with only 8 nm to go to our waypoint on the Ontario side! That made me feel much better too. Its awful what tricks your mind can play on you!! The remaining 8 miles diminished steadily and we arrived in Ontario at 3:45 a.m. As soon as we turned the corner into the Adophus Reach in the Bay of Quinte, the water calmed right down and everything was serene!

I went back to bed at 5:00 and John took us the rest of the way to Trenton. We arrived at 11:30 after breakfast on the run. Lovely little town - where John spent his teenage years as an Airforce Brat!!! Its like coming home to him in more ways than one. How lovely to be back in Canada! We sang "O Canada" as we came into the mouth of the Trent River. Docked the boat, cleared customs etc. etc. and then went for lunch at Timmy's!!! Yeah! Canadian. tradition, as good as ever!! Tonight we're going to the movies and get a pizza afterwards. Haven't been to the movies since Miami!!

Lake Ontario







Day 290, May 30th, 2010

Left Rome at 7:00, thinking we'd stop at the Junction of the Erie Canal and the Oswego Canal!
We did much better than that!!

Did lock #21 and #22 and arrived at Sylvan Beach. Such a pretty little place - it always reminds me of Wasaga Beach! Good thing in a way that we didn't reach there as the boats were rafted up at the free dock, 4 deep!! And then across the 20 miles of Lake Oneida. A little choppy but not bad at all. Some boat traffic but again not bad. It was good to get that behind us as it can really kick up in bad weather.

Just kept chugging along. Couldn't be luckier with the weather - sunny and warm.

Came to the junction around 2:00 p.m. and realised we could make it all the way to Oswego so just kept going. Another 7 locks on the Oswego Canal. Passed the little town of Phoenix where we'd stayed a couple of times before. Built all new docks there, which looked very smart.

Arrived in Oswego, Lock #7 at about 7:30 p.m. and were warned of some kids swimming in the canal between #7 and #8. There are two levels to the canal at that point and there can be very dangerous undercurrents caused by the pipes under the water. The lockmasters were afraid for the kids safety. By the time we reached the kids, they were all out of the water. However, one young lady called out to me, asking if we had any fresh water on board. One of the young boys had hurt himself badly - I could see him holding his shoulder and walking as if in pain. John did a 360 while I ran below and grabbed to bottles of water. Then we sidled up to the canal wall and I threw them to her over the wall. When we reached Lock #8 the lockmaster mentioned the kids again and I told him one of the boys was hurt. He called the police to go see to them.

We came through Lock #8 where we could see Lake Ontario clearly - flat and no wind! Again, we decided to keep going. Thunder storms were forecast for late Monday, so we grabbed the opportunity.

It was just beautiful when we started with a lovely sunset.

Rome, NY

Day 289, May 29th, 2010

We'd hoped to get to Sylvan Beach at the beginning of Lake Oneida, but that didn't happen. Several of the locks seemed pretty slow. So we stopped instead at the Free Dock in Rome beside a park which was very pretty, about half way between lock #21 and #22.

It was a lovely day again with good weather. Lovely scenery of the Adirondacks. Passed some mountain climbers on a rock face; some boys jumping off a railway bridge into the River. There's always lots to see. We were surprised though how little boat traffic there was, considering it was their long weekend.

We arrived at the Free Dock in Rome about 7:00 -a couple of boats already tied up there. One boat kindly moved up to make room for us. A good day.

Lock 13, Erie Cana,NY

Day 288, May 28th, 2010

We left Albany at 6:00 a.m. and set off for the Erie Canal. Met another Canadian boat just before Waterford; they'd just bought their boat in Oriental, NC and were taking it home to Toronto. We went through all the locks together that day. Went straight through Waterford - were surprised to see so few boats tied up there. There are 5 locks, one after the other, called the Waterford Flight, to start with. They are very organized though and as you exit one, they have the doors open at the next. Its beautiful country through there with the high craggy peaks of the Adirondacks. We kept going till dusk, arriving on the East side of Lock #13. Tied up on the wall and pretty much went to bed right away.

Thursday, May 27, 2010

Albany, NY


Day 287, May 27th, 2010

Definitely a little cooler! Much better! We didn't get out of bed till 7:00 a.m. What a treat! We slept in!! Even had time to cook eggs and bacon for breakfast.

Angela, Mike and four of their kids, Kate, Paul, Rachel and Michelle, arrived shortly after 11:00. It was so good to see them. They came aboard Periwinkle and saw our modest abode and we talked about our long trip. Then off we all went in their car to a lovely retaurant in Albany for a lovely lunch together. Angela and I haven't see each other since we were kids but it was just like it was with her sisters in Illinois - as if we've known each other forever. When we got back to the marina, Mike set up his computer in the club house and we chatted with Angela's Mom (my aunt) on Video Chat with G-mail. Ain't technology great! It was really special to be able to do that together.

Sad to say goodbye, but now that we've made the connection, we'll just have to make plans for a get together down the road, definitely not leaving it so long!!!!

Tomorrow we're off again. We were able to buy canal passes here at the marina, so we're all set to go. The Erie Canal has just switched to their summer hours - so hopefully we'll make Oswego in 4 days.

Albany, NY







Day 286, May 26th, 2010

Up early again! We'd had our breakfast and were moving the boat into position by 6:45 a.m. The other guys were still on the mooring, nobody in site. We thought they'd join us shortly so just kept doing the next thing. The crane motor was good, although extremely slow - nothing as good as our new fancy system at CYC, but it worked and the remote control thing was extremely good as we could both work on the boat as well. The only other time we've done it with just the two of us, was in Thunder Bay. We hadn't had the boat very long and were pretty green - nearly dropped the b....... thing in the drink until Jim Massey came along and gave us a hand!!!! This time was much smoother. It came down easily and ended up well balanced on the supports. We were pleased. The guys on the other boat dropped the mooring and arrived at the dock just as the job was done! (Something like "dishes diarrhea".)

Scorching hot again! We were lucky we'd made such an early start as the temperature kept rising. It took a while to organize all the lines and shrouds etc. and get it lashed down securely.
Finally we were off around noon. We'd made arrangements to meet my cousin, Angela and her family in Albany the next day, and wanted to reprovision ready for the Erie Canal. We arrived at the Albany Yacht Club at 1:00 and got a cab to the grocery store 5 blocks away. We would normally have walked this distance without batting an eye but it was so hot!!! Going along in the cab we passed one of those eletronic billboards and it gave the temperature as 107 degrees Centigrade. Wow! I don't think I've ever been in such temperatures!!! The air conditioned store felt good, and we weren't all that disappointed when we had to wait nearly 45 minutes to get the cab back.

Our neighbour in the slip next door arrived on his boat and it wasn't long before he had his swim suit on and was going for a swim off his swim platform. "The members of the Boat Club all think I'm crazy but I do this all the time!" "Right", says I "I'm doing the same." Hudson River water does not look exactly clean - its brown, brown, with all kinds of bits floating about, from plastic bottles to cans, old bits of wood, and loads of pollen from the trees. But I'm telling you - that water felt so good! Fortunately our neighbour had set up a hose too, so we could sluice off once we climbed out.

Around 7:30 p.m., when it had cooled a little, we walked the laundry up to the laundromat a block away and looked after that. We were happy that we'd done all the jobs, we'd have a good visit with Angela and her family the next day and then be ready to leave first thing Friday morning.

By the time I got back from having a shower, we enjoyed some lovely fireworks, and then around midnight there was a banging, crashing, thunder storm with some heavy rain. Hopefully it would be a little cooler.

Castleton-on-Hudson, NY







Day 285, May 25th, 2010

Off again at 7:00 and back onto the Hudson. It was overcast but warm. Today we were heading for Castleton-on-Hudson, where the Boat Club has a crane they will rent out for $50.00 for 2 hours to transients to either put your mast up or down. If you going down the East coast and back up the same way, you can even leave all your support lumber there, behind the building, and it will be there when you get back! We did that the last trip!

Anyway, there was very little traffic early in the morning, but the river is wide and deep and we were motoring along outside the channel. There was lots of grass in the river and old logs too, but we didn't think much of it. Then around 8:00 the engine seemed to be laboring. The rpm had dropped and we were only g oing about 4.2 knots with the current in our favour. We reckoned we should have been bombing along. John put the boat in reverse several times thinking the prop. was fouled with grass but it didn't seem to help. (The anxiety was beginning to build, yet again - What now?) Finally we decided to drop the anchor and have a look. John donned his wet suit and snorkel gear. We tied a line around his middle as it was clear the current was strong. I stayed on the deck and held onto the line and he dove on the boat - sure enough he found grass wrapped tightly around the shaft. It was difficult getting it off what with the strong current and the poor visibility but he got quite a bit off and climbed aboard again. Perfect! He was the hero of the day!!! Off we went - all sounded much smoother and we were zipping along well over 6 knots, even up to 7 at times. Ahhhh!!!!!!

We got into Castleton around 2:30, pulling in behind another sailboat with its mast down. It was so hot, we went straight inside to register and sure enough there were these two guys having a long cold drink chatting with the dockmaster, Ron. (We recognised each other from before!) Wayne and his son, Matt, were on their way to Belize, where Matt was going to live on the boat for a bit. We agreed to help each other with the masts. They had some work to do on their electrics yet, and we had to get the rig ready and build the supports.

It was scorching hot but no wind. Really perfect for taking the sails off. We've carried the lumber with us all these miles under the mattress in the quarter berth. Everything had to come out and then get repacked. While I did the packing job, John built the supports again. We were dripping in sweat - the showers felt so good when we were finally done around 9:00 p.m.
Wayne and Matt had taken their boat over to a mooring buoy on the other side of the river but agreed to be back at 7:00 am to work the crane.

Monday, May 24, 2010

Kingston, NY











Day 284, May 24th, 2010

Another short day! We left at 7:00 so we could use the tide to help us up river. Left Pollepel with clouds hanging over the mountain peaks. Once we came around the West side of Pollepel we could really see the castle at its best. Quite the site. It must have been amazing in its day.

It was a quiet day again as we moved up the river. Couldn't use the sails at all as the wind was on the nose. The sun came out close to noon, as we arrived at Kingston. Kingston used to be the capital city of the State of New York. We had intended to anchor at the end of Rondout Creek but instead took a spot on the dock outside the Museum. We walked into town and had lunch at a nice Italian restaurant, picked up some milk and came back to the boat to use the Wifi!

Tomorrow we'll head to Castleton-on-Hudson, where we'll rent their crane to take the mast down.

Its been an amazing few days. We'd felt so despondent last week with all the problems. We'd even thought we might have to truck the boat home. We were worried about the engine, getting back home for Graham and Sheri's wedding etc. etc. Now, here we are again after making such amazing headway. The engine seems okay. We're back on schedule and keeping our fingers crossed our luck will hold. We'd originally planned on going up to Ottawa on the Rideau before returning home to Collingwood, but now we're thinking we'll go straight home. Its like we're a couple of homing pigeons and can think of only one thing!!!

Pollepel Island, NY











Day 283, May 23rd, 2010

Oh that bed felt so good, and it was hard to get up the next morning. It was 8:45 by the time we'd set off.

We felt kind of jet lagged by our marathon run! Only went about 27 nm arriving at Pollepel Island in the Catskills, just north of West Point, around 1:00 p.m. We both felt wiped!
We kept remarking how different it was there after being down south so long. The high peaks of the Catskills, with the cliff faces, densely forested. So different from Florida and the Low Country!!! The architecture is so different too, a much older feel. Variety is the spice of life!!
Pollepel Island is an interesting spot too - where Frank Bannerman, a Scot, built himself a castle at the turn of the 20th century. Its in ruins now. After his death, his family didn't keep it up and sold it to the State of New York in 1967. Its an amazing place. There are guided tours around the ruins, but we were just too tired and spent the afternoon having a long nap. The peaceful sound of the birds chirping is interrupted every 10 - 15 minutes by the dulcet tones of the Amtrak whizzing by on the East bank and the whistle of the freight trains, whizzing down the West bank!!! We laughed, didn't bother us a bit - we would have slept through an earthquake!!
We managed to rally ourselves in time to barbecue and then played Dominoes until we crawled back into bed at 10:00 p.m. and slept again!

Chesapeake City, Maryland














































Day 279, May 19th, 2010

We set off with some trepidation at 7:00 the next morning. A delay right off the bat - we got through the first bascule bridge and then the lock at the end of Virginia Cut but then had to wait for the 2nd bascule bridge as it did not open at 8:00 at all. We doodled, meanwhile a bunch of other boats caught up.

We were a little leery, to say the least of anybody coming close and giving us a lot of wake but kept our fingers crossed, nosing right into the wake if somebody came by. It seemed to work.
The weather was fine and the water flat. We plugged on. All the other boats took off, once through the second bridge, we didn't want to push the engine. Then another delay, a railway bridge that is usually open, closed just in front of us and we had to wait for a train to come by. However, water conditions remained good as we entered Norfolk and then Hampton Roads. This was one of our concerns - that the engine would overheat just as we were in the middle of a lot of traffic. On our first visit through the area I'd managed to get on the wrong side of the channel and had to wiggle our way through between a freighter and a destroyer! However, we were lucky, traffic was light, and we came all the way through that heavy Naval area with no trouble at all. Its quite an imposing sight at any time, with aircraft carriers and destroyers, etc. etc.!!!

With the delays, there was no way we could make Deltaville, so instead set our sights on Back Creek off the Poquonson River, just North West of Hampton. We got out onto the Chesapeake and still the water was virtually flat and hardly any wind at all. We looked at each other and agreed - "Lets just keep going!" And we headed straight up the Chesapeake, right up the middle!!! Only one time did we get hit by a bad wake and the popping started, and the high temp. light came on. We couldn't believe our good luck, knowing that the Chesapeake can be quite a challenging waterway with rough seas and heavy traffic. There was none of that. We kept chugging along and started three hour watches when it got dark.

Day 280, May 20th, 2010

38 hours later we got into Chesapeake City in Maryland, halfway along the C & D Canal. There was no problem in arriving just as it got dark as the canal is lit along both sides by street lights! We found the anchorage easily, edging in at low tide. First try we grounded on the mud but second try we sneaked in on the side of the channel and anchored in 10 ft of water, right beside a busy restaurant with the music blaring. It was as much as we could do to secure the boat, turn off the instruments and climb into bed. We slept like logs!

Day 281, May 21st, 2010

The book told us that if we left the anchorage 1 hour before high tide, the current would help take us down the Delaware. We set off at 4:45 a.m. but we had to work hard against a current until we reached the end of the C&D 12 miles further on. However, once we came out on the Delaware River the current worked in our favour and we were sliding down the River and then the Bay as if on a sled. There was little to no wind and still the water was flat, oily flat!!! No trouble at all, the engine kept chugging away. Mr. James Taylor, of Atlantic Yacht Basin, we think you fixed it with the wire coat hanger - the water intake strainer on the through hull m ust have been partially occluded?! There was still some concern, we still had to travel up the ocean and surely there would be some rough water.

We arrived at Cape May at the bottom of New Jersey at 5:00 and stopped at a marina to refuel.
There was some wind at the dock but the weather forecast sounded okay. Winds 10 - 15 knots out of the East, backing to South East, waves 1 -2 feet. We decided to go out and try, knowing that we could always turn back if it looked too much. As we left Cape May we saw another boat we knew anchored there - Beltane of New Brunswick. We had a short chat on the radio - they were going to sleep the night and leave in the morning. We told them that if we didn't like it out there we'd come back and anchor and join them. The weather forecast had also mentioned a "Canadian cold front" arriving on Sunday with winds out of the North East. John and I both felt that we'd be better to try and make it to New York that night. There was a much cooler wind heading in off the Ocean, so I donned my long underwear and layered on more clothing on the top. I was warm and cosy. Even John put on his fleece and fowlies!

It was gorgeous out there. A little wind, perhaps 10 knots and the waves perhaps 1 foot. We double reefed the main, knowing that shortly we'd be taking watches, and put out the whole jib. We kept the engine running very gently and were going along very nicely at 5.9 knots.
Atlantic City came and left in the dark with the bright lights shining. The wind died when I came on watch at 2:00 and the water was totally flat again. There was hardly any traffic during the night but in the morning we had to watch carefully for a myriad of fishing boats.
Its so beautiful out there, both at night and in the daytime. With each inlet we passed we realised we were getting closer and closer to New York City. (We had each inlet marked on our route, just in case something blew up and we needed cover.) There was one weather forecast by the Coast Guard just before we reached Atlantic City that haunted us a little. He spoke of winds up to 20 knots, small craft wind warning and thunder storms. However, it all looked so benign we had trouble believing him and it certainly never happened. We used the sails when we could and just kept on chugging.

Day 282, May 22nd, 2010

Finally arrived at Sandy Hook (at the mouth of NY Harbour) around 11:00 a.m. We remembered how, hit by a sudden squall, we'd torn the main right across, at this exact spot in 2006. However, nothing like that happened this time. A freighter was brought in under tow - one tug in front and one behind, but that was as interesting as it got on that front. New York Harbour is truly amazing as you come in under the Verazzano Bridge. There are barges, and freighters, anchored and underway. There are helicopters overhead and Staten Island Ferries crossing the channel. Lots of sailboats of every size sailing without a care in the world. Its awe inspiring. We were taking pictures and pointing out the sights of Manhattan and, of course, the beautiful Statue of Liberty. She is really a lovely lady!!!

The tide was coming in as we headed up the Hudson River! How could we be this lucky? At one point we noticed our Speed Over Ground at 8.8 knots!!! It was a rush. Up through New York, past Yonkers, under the Tappan Zee Bridge and there was one of our favourite places - Nyack Boat Club. We took the sails down and headed in. There was the tender and the guys came over when they heard us call out. "Need a mooring for the night?" "Yes please!" "Just follow me!" And in we went. Its a mooring field at Nyack, we'd been there twice before and the people are so friendly. Nyack is a dear little place, artsy crafty little place about 20 miles north of New York. We got settled on the mooring and then went into pay! The last time we stayed there, they'd chased us as we left and gave the money back! This time, they just refused to take it. The yacht club building was all decorated with flags and lots of people were sitting down to supper on the deck. It was the finish of their Sail Past. We were invited to buy tickets for the supper and sit down and join them. It was delicious! Good conversation with the people at our table - a lovely end to a great 38 hours again!

Tuesday, May 18, 2010

Atlantic Yacht Basin, Virginia Cut

Day 278, May 18th, 2010

Well, funny day!! We had to wait until about 1:00 - but then the chief mechanic came and assessed our trouble. We told him all our woes and concerns, and he had a very good look at the engine. He thought at first it was the water intake - maybe it had got something stuck up there or something was occluding the strainer. He took a piece of wire and shoved it down the intake but there was nothing there and there was lots of water. He checked out the exhaust and reckoned that was fine. The water pump and impeller is fine. He couldn't find anything wrong!! He told John to start her up at the dock and really run her hard, which John did - and everything was fine. We thought it would be - the problem only seems to happen in rough water.
Frustrating!!! Don't know whether to be glad or sad!!

Oh well! I did do the laundry and went to the grocery store. That was good! Had lots of good chats with some really nice people around here. That was good too!

We've been advised that the weather is going to be lousy for the next little while and that it really doesn't take any longer to go up the Chesapeake and down the Delaware, so we'll head off in the morning and see how far up the Chesapeake we can get. If the problem happens again, we shall just have to find help again somewhere else. Who knows! This life on the boat is either blissful or stressful!!! At times you think life can't get any better, and at other times, you wonder what the h.... you're doing out here. I'm longing for my comfortable little condo with the gas fire at a touch, my pretty little kitchen, my comfortable bed and bathroom!!! Oh, better not go there!!!!

Atlantic Yacht Basin, Virginia Cut







Day 277, May 17th, 2010

We felt worried. The weather forecast wasn't too bad though, calling for south east winds at 10 - 15 knots. We figured we would sail across the Albemarle Sound and up into the North River.

We put the main up before we brought up the anchor, but the engine did start okay and got us out of the channel on the Alligator River and into the Sound. As soon as we got out into the open water, we shut down the engine and determined to sail. The weather forecast lied. The wind never did get into the south east but stayed East to North East!!! We don't have wind instruments but we heard another boat report on the radio that it was 20 knots! Again, the Albemarle is huge, 15 nautical miles across, and shallow, around 17 feet deep, which gives a short uncomfortable chop. However, we stuck to our guns and sailed across, making two tacks. We set off about 6:00 and made it all the way across and then up the North River another 5 miles under sail. Dropped the main at the top of the North River, where the channel gets narrow and meanders. Then we had to use the engine again. We hadn't gone very far when another gas guzzler came by and swamped us and the popping started again, and the light came on, etc. etc.!!!
From the North River, there's a series of narrow channels and then you get to the North Landing River where its very shallow. There's a dredged channel, well marked but the area is open and wide with areas of shallow water either side - 2ft, 1ft, 4ft, 5ft, etc. etc. We were able to use the jib for long periods and wind was pretty good. At times we used the engine to help keep the speed up to 5 knots, but then another gas guzzler would come by and we'd go through the routine again and again. Meanwhile the sky got greyer and greyer and it started to drizzle.

Around 4:30, the temperature light was on again. Each time John was having more and more trouble getting her to cool down. We were getting really concerned that damage might be done to the engine. So we decided to get help. The wind was still in our favor, and the channel was long and straight but we felt that it was only a matter of time before the wind would change and then we could go aground. John called Tow Boat US. We had a hard time making contact at first. His transmission was breaking up. Then a big cruiser passed us and told us that Tow Boat US were trying to call us. We asked him to relay and he did, which was very helpful. It wasn't long before the local Boat US guy, in Coinjock, called us on the cell phone and said he'd be along in about 90 minutes. It was then that we looked ahead on the chart and realised that we'd better just drop the anchor right then as there was an area of 6ft just off the channel. We shortened sail, came up wind and dropped the anchor. It was pouring with rain by then and we were both sodden. When in times of stress - EAT!! I quickly warmed up yesterday's spaghetti sauce and added more noodles and we sat down to a warming plate of spaghetti and mugs of hot tea!!!

That helped. Just as we were sipping on the tea, just an hour later, and there was a "Ahoy, Periwinkle!" from outside. It was Cap'n Wayne, the Tow Boat US guy!! In the blink of an eye we had the anchor up, the line was slipped over the bow cleat, and we were underway. John had called Atlantic Yacht Basin and they were holding a place for us at the end of their dock. Wayne hummed along with his 200 hp Merc. at 5.6 knots while we took turns at the wheel to keep the tow boat immediately infront. The rain just poured down the whole time. I felt bad for poor Wayne who stood out in that weather the whole time, and when we reached the dock I saw he didn't even have a wind shield at his driving station!!!! At least we'd had a hot meal and had some cover! Anyway we reached the dock at 8:30 p.m. and there was somebody there to meet us. Wayne came alongside, tied up to us and nudged us to the dock very smoothly. We were happy to arrive safely! Our thanks to Wayne for a job well done. He said his wife would be waiting up for him with a hot drink!!

(Does this bring back memories, Darvin and Marilyn?)

Little Alligator River, NC

Day 276, May 16th, 2010,

Off we left at 8:00 a.m. up the last of the Pungo River and then into the Alligator/Pungo canal.
Gorgeous day, not quite as hot. In the canal we passed a motor cruiser stuck well and truly in the mud on the side! They asked a passing power boat for help but no luck. Needless to say we couldn't help.

All was fine until we reached the Alligator River where the water was more open and rough with a northerly wind. The river is about 2 miles across at this point and its shallow. Just as we were feeling more confident in the engine, the exhaust started popping again and this time the high temperature light came on. That hadn't happened before, although we had been shutting it down very promptly. Again, after a short while we were able to get going again. The wind was on the nose so we couldn't sail but we chugged along.

Just before the Alligator River gets out to the Albemarle Sound there's a swing bridge. We were just going through the bridge and the idea did pass through my head "Oh, I do hope it doesn't happen again right now!" Sure enough, we'd not cleared the bridge when the popping started again! John had no option but to push it until we were clear - with the wind on the nose we pulled out the jib and had to bear off to get some forward way before we could shut the engine off. The temperature light was on and John couldn't get the engine to cool off, so we had to give up on the engine. There was a choice of two anchorages on that side of the bridge. The preferred anchorage was on the east side, described as a good spot to wait out bad weather on the Albemarle - however, according to the chart the entrance is quite narrow and as we sailed the wind clocked around to the east. It would have been impossiblel to enter with the wind on the nose. So, we chose the west anchorage at Little Alligator River. There was a little hook behind an island there but that didn't seem like a good idea, seeing as we might have continued problems with the engine. So we dropped the anchor in the open - very open, windy and lumpy with 2 ft waves. We set the anchor alarm in case we dragged, and went to bed, not too hopeful of sleeping very much. Sure enough, I was awakened at 12:00 with the alarm ringing off. We scrambled out of bed but everything looked just the same - just a wide swinging, we figured.
We did sleep a little off and on. The wind diminished a little but it didn't quit, and neither did the waves. Not the best of nights!

We're homesick!

Belhaven, NC







Day 275, May 15th, 2010

We left Oriental at 7:00 the next morning. The Neuse River was good and we motor sailed up across the Neuse and then across the Pamlico Sound into the Pungo River. Said a mental goodbye to the dolphins as they don't come further north than the Pungo! All was fine until some motor cruiser went by at high speed sloshing us in his wake. The pop, pop, popping started again from the exhaust and the engine started overheating. We shut it down and waited a bit and then were able to start it again and continue on our way. Rest of the day was fine. John's original thought was that it was a water cooling problem but Breck, the mechanic, had been so sure it was dirty fuel. John did change the impeller while we were in Oriental but the impeller was absolutely fine.

However, we arrived in Belhaven around 3:00 p.m. and tied up in a lovely little marina there. We were their only customers at first. What a sweet spot. They'd made it so nice with a screened gazebo on the front. It was scorching hot and humid. I picked up my papers and sent them off by UPS - that was a bit funny as the poor girl had never sent a package internationally before and it kind of sent her into a spin; eventually her boss had to come in and sort out the paperwork!! We went for supper over at the local diner across the street and sat outside on the deck where there was a lovely breeze off the river. I ate catfish again - I really like catfish!!! (Thanks Mike and Cindy & Co.!) After supper we walked back to the marina, collected a bag of drinks, our books, my knitting and the Dominoes, and went to the gazebo. It was such a lovely evening. I finished a little sweater for Abby while John took a nap. Then we played a game of Mexican Train Dominoes - all in the lovely comfort of our bug free gazebo!!!

Friday, May 14, 2010

Oriental, NC

Day 273, May 13th, 2010

Breck came pretty promptly in the morning and replaced the polished fuel tank, hooking up everything again. However, when it came to changing the oil seal on the engine, it wasn't there! So thats as far as things could go. Disappointing!

I walked up to the grocery store for a couple of bits. Its a pretty little town with a really rural feel. People tell us there are more boats than people! (And most of those are sail boats which is a bit unusual.) We barbecued for supper and then watched a movie to take our minds off the waiting.


Day 274, May 14th, 2010

Hooray!!! We're fixed!!! Had to wait for an oil seal to be sent from New Jersey. We waited all day yesterday but it didn't come. We were disappointed. When the morning came and went today, we were thinking we might have to wait until Monday. "Breck", the mechanic, stopped by to say it wasn't in the morning delivery but still may come. He did leave a message at the supplier asking for the tracking number though. Shortly after 1:00 I went up to the office and asked the girl to check if the guy had called in the number. We looked it up on the website and it said the package had been delivered in the morning! It was just that the packaging was a little different than usual. We called Breck on his cell phone as he was working at another site, and he said he'd come in about an hour and a half. True to his word he came to the boat and had the seal changed in less that 15 minutes!!!!

We shall leave first thing in the morning to Belhaven on the Pungo River. John's got the GPS plotted all the way to New York. Hopefully there won't be any more problems. We're keeping our fingers crossed for a weather window to do the long leg between Hampton and New York.

Wednesday, May 12, 2010

Oriental, NC

Day 272, May 12th, 2010

Well, after having trouble stopping in Oriental before, now, it seems, we can't get away!!!
We have made progress today though. The mechanic came yesterday and reckoned it was mainly dirty fuel. He was back today and took the fuel tank right out. Its been "polished" and is ready to go back in tomorrow. Couple of other little bits too but we should be okay then.

I did the laundry while John helped "Breck" the mechanic. We walked to the local diner for supper and it was really good. If all goes well in the morning, perhaps we'll get going in the afternoon? Our fingers are crossed!

Tuesday, May 11, 2010

Oriental, NC







Day 271, May 11th, 2010

We thought we had about 41 nautical miles to do today to Belhaven, NC so decided we didn't have to leave at the crack of dawn. We walked into town to have breakfast somewhere first!
However, the marina was all locked up, we walked several blocks but couldn't find a cafe that was open. We were just too early! By the time we got back to the marina I tried the door again to the little store and sure enough they had a little cafe in there! Great! We were greeted by a very nice young lady and sat down with orange juice and a cup of coffee to wait for breakfast. As we sat there, a gentleman arrived and ordered breakfast too. Having established he was alone, we invited him to sit with us. We had a lovely chat with "Larry" over the eggs and bacon! He had an appointment with the yacht brokerage. Having sold his boat sometime ago, he felt it was time to buy another! He lives about 3 hours inland and will keep his boat here inOriental again. (We are so lucky in Collingwood to have our boat just 10 minutes from the house.)

John approached one of the marina staff about the night's stay. Apparently we had tied up on the wall of a private marina and they don't deal with transients. There was no charge. That was a very pleasant surprise!

We returned to the boat, got ourselves organized and set off at 9:30. We didn't get very far. There was a stiff wind, on the nose, and choppy water. We put the sails up but it was very apparent we had an engine problem. It didn't take us long to decide to turn back and get a mechanic to have a look. The book showed "Sailcraft Services, Inc." to be the right yard to go so we called them on the radio and they gave us instructions to get there. We turned up Whittaker's Creek and ended up rafted onto another boat outside the yard. Lots and Lots of boat here - kind of reminds me of Back Creek in Annapolis! Very busy yard with lots of boats in various states of togetherness or not.

Its taken all day, but the mechanic just left. He recommends we have the fuel tank polished which he'll try to push through tomorrow. John is going to change all the fuel filters himself and the water impeller. Lets hope we have only 2 days delay. We were congratulating ourselves on making such good progress. Not to worry, we still hope to be back in Canada for June 10th.

Oriental, NC











Day 270, May 10th, 2010

A bridge, just 5 miles from the anchorage, was restricted through the day from 7:00 a.m. onwards, so we decided to get there early and request an opening so we wouldn't have to be delayed. We pulled up the anchor at 5:45 and made an early start!!! (Those of you who know us well must be laughing - John and Gill up and going at 5:45!!! It can happen!!!!) The temperature was much different this morning - back to sweaters and all weather gear to keep out the cold chill. Again, wind straight out of the north so no possibility of using the jib.

Pretty uneventful day really. Thank goodness for Mondays - all the locals back to work! Just other cruisers on the water today. We passed through the bridge with two other sail boats, a catamaran "Tortuga" and a monohull, "Stella Maris". We got into a quick conversation with Tortuga on the radio. Usual questions - where are you from? where are you headed? It turned out they were from Illinois but kept the boat in the Kentucky Lakes. "Oh, I wonder if you know of a marina called Pebble Isles - we had a lovely stay there and were sorry to leave?"
and he replied "Yeah, thats our home marina!!" So we had a nice chat about the extremely nice owners there and the excellent cinnamon buns each morning! Tortuga is going onto Boston or so and then will turn around and go back to the Bahamas. (He still has a couple of Bahamian dollars he hasn't spent yet.) When I suggested they continue onto Canada, he reckoned they would be "half looped" by the time they got to Boston!

Later in the day we were passed by a trawler with a Canadian flag called "Falkor". They hailed us on the radio - "Didn't we meet you in the Benjamins last summer?" Sure enough! They had given us all kinds of tips about the river system. We thought we might meet them on the way down but never did. Apparently they spent the winter in the Exumas having had a quick and comfortable crossing.

At Moorehead City, NC we took the main channel inland, completely bypassing the lovely little town of Beaufort, NC. We'd been there twice before but have never visited Oriental, NC so decided to skip Beaufort this time. Oriental is about 17 nautical miles north of Beaufort on the Neuse River and we thought we could just make it before dark. We'd wanted to stop in Oriental before but it hadn't happened so we thought it was a must this time. I'm sure Tom Witort at CYC told me he bought Holuk from Oriental, so that gives us another reason to say hi to this dear little town - "the Sailing Capitol of North Carolina" according to the billboard in town.

It was just about 7:50 when we came up the channel. The book told us there was a free dock, so I had the lines and fenders set up. However, there were several boats in the very small anchorage and as we cruised the anchorage somebody told us that there was a free dock but it was pretty much always full. We decided to drop the anchor instead. We did that but then a wind came up out of the south east and all theboats changed direction - then we realised that if the wind became very strong and the chain stretched out, the boat could wind up on the marina wall at our stern. That didn't seem a good idea. Up came the anchor again! Nobody answered from the marina on the radio so we decided to tie up on their wall and settle up in the morning.
We were both exhausted. Having set off at 5:45, it was almost 9:00 when we finally were happy with our set up and climbed into bed!!




Pics: Coming through the port of Moorehead, NC, and further up the river where the houses are smaller; note how the trees have changed - tall pines and cypress, no palms!